pgmfi.org

I have been reading on this site trying to figure out a simple approach to tuning an ECU. The one I will be practicing on is a p28, it is already chip but I don't know if it has a socket already in it. Which socket would I need
to use ?/ im very new to this please don't say read the wikime or whatever I have been the past 6 days, and cuttered w/info.

If you have a link you can send me that would be fine, please no smartass I really want to learn crome.

Here are some of my questions,
which wide band is preferred on a honda 4cyl?
and I want to be able to tune w/out having to burn a chip everytime I make a change. So would I need a hiccup or ostrich? I've been reading write ups on both and confused on which is better or more user friendly.
also can someone send me a link on datalogging and what its actually used for? sorry if I sound like a dumbass and im sure you are going to make look like one in this thread.
my aim name is supraccordlx if someone would want to talk to me on there about it.

thanks

if it's "chipped" it should be socketed.

Get an ostrich, you will never use anything else.

Get a HULog, it is RELIABLE... lol.

The best thing you can do, is take the top cover off your ECU and look for the chip in a socket down near the main MCU.... that way you know it's chipped.... I have seen a few already that people have replaced the freq. crystals in and.... well, that sin't chipped my friend... lol


widebands: I would say the best bang and reliability for the buck is the innovate LC1.... light compact, and les sthan $200 with a sensor... plus it has the scalable output so you can replace your stock o2 with it... just make sure you calibrate it about every oil change to be on the safe side.

datalogging:

basically, if you use the car's computer to record all info at that current point in time, you can see _exactly_ what your ECU is doing and reading... not what an external device is reading. The functions are built into your ECU to log... so it is cheaper to get a TTL-> serial converter (a HULog) and datalog out of the ECU.


I know everything seems confusing... but it all makes sense later.

so I need a ostrich or a hulog to modify the changes I make in crome to communicate with the ECU. I can not data log with these?

I would need a TTL? where do I get this stuff, and what do you recommend?

i've been reading alot, starting to understand some, I pm'd you through AIM msg me back if you get time.

basically, you need both:

Ostrich lets you change the ecu settings in real time,

and the HULog or also called a "TTL=>RS232 Converter" is for datalogging. It is used for data transfer/uploads to the DIY RTP1.0; even though people are having a bitch of a time with it (software problem).

so... yeah.


http://www.moates.net

My personal suggestion is to get:
Ostrich
HULog
Innovate LC-1 W/Sensor

With all that and a free copy of crome, and a free dayalogger such as freelog, you can easily start playing with your fuel maps etc and get the ball rollin!

I got ur AIM, added u to my list, but I am rather busy today... getting ready for work right now.

I am usually online around2-3AM GMT-8.

so would I just need an eprom burner to burn a chip after I do data logging and real time tuning to get the settings I want. Then burn to a chip in put it into the socket. Am I reading all of this correct?

its cool when you get a chance just pm me.

No. The ostrich is suposed to keep its memory for up to 7 years depending on how long the batteries last. All you need is what he listed and what he listed is pretty much the best thing you could have for personal tuning. Oh, yeah, buy crome pro and you'll thank yourself latter!

well I want to learn the free version before I spend more money on something I don't know how to use.


most of the stuff is on backorder(1/31) so I got some time to get familiar w/the program.

what is the main difference in them?

Crome free only has limited features you can use, CromePro has everything you need, you can do data logging with it and tracing, full throttle launch, ect. The only reason you would need to buy a chip burner is if for whatever reason you didn't want to leave the Ostrich installed. You can just run off the Ostrich tho, just so you know you do have many options as to what you can do as far as datalogging. The easiest is the hondalog or hulog. As of this very point in time the Ostrich is the best & easiest way to go for RTP (Real-Time Programming) for making your adjustments while ur driving. The innovative LC-1 would be the better wideband to use in my opinion. For your best tune save money and plan on having some dyno time! Any more questions feel free to ask. So far in my opinion Crome is the most user friendly and graphically helpful. That however is just in my compairson of Crome & Uberdata.

do I have to leave the labtop plug in everytime I drive or does ostrich save all the changes I make?

so ostrich will do everything I need for real time tunning and it also data logs? because I though i would need a HuLog for datalogging, from what I have read.

once they are off backorder I am getting one, would you recommend the hulog and the ostrich?

if anyone has one forsale let me know im looking to get one.

The ostrich saves the bin so you don't have to leave you laptop in the car all the time. The ostrich does not data log so you have to buy some other kind of dataloging hardware.

Yas, just get the Ostrich and the hulog. I highly recommend getting the CromePro also for ease in tuning.

how much is it??? I plan on upgrading it when I get used to the free version. if anyone can pm me I have some questions about the mbar readings and vac/bst readings. I understand whats happing down the rows w/the rpm readings but don't get what all the columns are for from 1 to b10? and what the readings are/

I understand what I need and the parts I am going to get, thanks to all of you.

mbar is millibar. 1000 mbar = 1 bar, 1 bar = atmosperic pressure or 14.7 psi absolute or 0 psi relitive. so 1000 mbar = 0 psi (relitive)
vac/bst means vacume / boost. 20.35" refers to 20.35 inHg or 20.35 inches of mercury, higher being more vacume. .3 refers to .3 psi of relitive pressure. (oh yea vac/bst in crome is relitive pressure)

so in crome on a stock bin "B10" is just what they name the column. 1035 mbar is over 1000 mbar, so 1035 is higher then atmospheric pressure at sealevel so it is in "reletive boost" and the boost that it is equal to is .3 psi, the # that is right below 1035.

CromePro is $150

wow, that was helpful for me too, thanks.

Q: with the ostrich and the HUlog, will you be able to tune just about any ECU? (i may not have asked that properly...i'm learning myself)