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I know very little of electronics but would love to repair this without mailing off.
My P28 (w/S300) primes, no spark. Code 15 after cranking.
Performed the tests in Helms according to the flowchart.
Checked for power to the pins at ecu, they were coorect, battery voltage where it should be (I forget the specifics)
I assumed from searching for a long time and thanks to a post by Fuse that q39 is associated with this icm "output."
I get something like 1-2 v WHILE cranking at A21/22.
Coil and ICM with retail units.
DOES A21 IN FACT "output' 10 volts?
I ohmed the yellow/blk to pin A21 to check for open.
Checked dizzy sensors with ohm meter, they are in spec. I see a small hairline crack int the outer curved black plastic body of the sensor that sits "up top" under the rotor, however.
Grok told me q39 should be E C M legs 1-3 left to right with the "c144" facing me. I see an "E" screened on the board on the left, so I take it's advice, what do I know?
I ordered 5 dtc144es from Cameo Electronics on ebay. Received3 with wide spaced legs and two with straight legs.
Grok said set meter to "diode" and test with red lead on pin 3 and black to pin 1 and pin 2 should show .6v to either leg. I get OL.
Grok says I got bad parts from ebay.
I have lost faith in Grok. I cant believe that I got 5 bad transistors and three in spare parts ecu's I have here are all bad?
I've been trying to learn and help myself, but I'm about whooped.
Should I just send it to ebay?
If anyone can tell me the proper way to test q39 I'd be forever in debt.
Also, I painstakingly de-soldered my q39 and had to clip it off and remove one leg at a time, one hole took forever to clear with my SRA wick, the "e" hole.
Now I dont have confidence Ishould replace it with the NOS part I ordered, if they're NO GOOD?!?
Man, I'm bummed.
This started when the car would randomly feel like i turned off key, so I reflowed the main relay, and went on test drive, made it about a mile and the code 15 started.
Tried a toolbox main relay and no difference.
I'm pretty sure I ran it for a few hours without the spring in the coil tower, after one of the damned troubleshooting sessions early on, if that's any clue.
Thanks if you read this novel, I'm out of ideas.

Well a simple search of Brave and their model provided the test method. I don't have an electronics lab here, so I guess I'll replace q39 with one of the nos ones i ordered.
Any help on code 15 and signal from A21 would really help.

Thanks to 3GSTEme, Civic is alive.
He mentioned Q38/39 in an old post
I replaced Q39 and it fired right up.
I almost cant believe it.

HOURS of research reading old unproductive posts with unrelated, or non-provided solutions.
I was about to send it off for repair
I guess the guys who used to help so much on the old threads I read have moved on, cuz nobody had anything to offer.

I hope this helps someone.