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Hacking up Honda's ECU
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Will I ever tune my car effectively?
Of course you will! 68%  68%  [ 75 ]
Doesn't look like its gonna happen N00b. 5%  5%  [ 6 ]
At this point I really can't tell.. 26%  26%  [ 29 ]
Total votes : 110
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 04, 2006 1:43 am 
Ok, im doing this because i wanna give confidence to other n00bs out there like me who think they're too stupid to do this. It may not work, and that may mean having opposite effect (haha that would be sad...) and lowering everyone's confidence but God willing it wont go that way.

First my setup..

Stock internals, 94 Integra LS.

Looking to go turbo boosting 6-9 psi depending on how good I get at tuning.

Progress so far (help on how to get further and what i need to correct is MUCH appreciated):

06/03/2006- Haven't bought the kit yet but looking into the http://www.xenocron.com started kit for the OBD-1. It's 410 bucks and comes with just about everything I need except something called a Motorola 2.5 bar thing for boost (still not familiar with it).

I was losing confidence but I took out my ecu today and compared it to the intro to chipping article's OBD-1 Ecu and everything became clear to me on how to get started. I just need a desoldering iron to take off the solders . One thing I didnt get.. It says R54 should be filled with a 1k to 1.2k resistor but..

WHERE IS R54!? I thought it was a typo, cause I did find R53 right above where the bigger chip goes. Is that it? Anyone? Also, exactly what kind of wire do I connect J1 with?

06/04/2006- Today I downloaded Crome (basic version) and went through a Crome Start-Up Guide.. http://www.xenocron.com/install/CromeGuide.htm

Starting out the guide tells you to open the P30 JDM Civic B16A map and then a GSR map (but in my case I opened a B18b map here in the file library).

For some reason they wanted the "P72" Integra Maps to be converted into the P30... this part I did not understand, why do I need to transfer all the information from P72 to P30? What do the P72 and P30 stand for anyway? Help me understand this from a very simple point of view as I dont have any previous knowledge about this subject, please.

Another question I had is why all the boxes in the High Cam Fuel are set to 0 in the P72 Integra Engine Map file but not in the civic file?

Anyway I went through all that, it wasnt so bad, I thought I had to know everything and input the data but having Crome helps you out when you have a stock map because you put a guess fuel ratio and you work from there to find the perfect mixture so its not too Lean or too Rich.

Another boost in confidence towards the whole project, the 550+ some dollars kinda evens it out but I think its best to tune this myself as I "might" save a couple bucks and in the future I wont need to spend another couple hundred bucks to get it tuned at a Dyno. If I had gone with the Hondats s200 + 300 dollar turbo tuning at a reputable tuner= over 600 bucks anyway so this doesnt hurt.

06-06-2006
- Early this morning (around 2-3am =P) I ordered the http://www.xenocron.com OBD1 Kit with USB. I have a basemap so far according to Xenocron's tuning with crome tutorial (posted on second page, PLEASE give me feedback, I know theres a lot wrong with it and I dont wanna throw it in my car). I've also posted some questions on page 2, the more you guys can answer the more I'd appreciate it.

I've also started looking for parts to the turbo kit. Xenocron links had a nice article to an Integra Generation 3 install so Im trying to follow his parts list, seems simple enough. Looks like im going with a Garrett T3 turbo (5 bolt) and God willing I can tune it myself so I wont need a best guess FMU (if i did probably vortech 12:1). So hopefully that works out but im excited about the tuning kit coming, looking into a Crome license but i dont like the idea that I can only use it on one computer, and I hear that John Cui has been MIA lately so I dont know if I should order yet.

Anyway, please check out my basemap, no VTEC so the high cam fuel is all 0's and high cam ignition is all -6 (thats how it came on the stock map), i followed the article as best as I could but certain things I couldnt do (such as setting the A/F ratio to 14.7, kept setting it to 14.22) and also due to restrictions because I was using Crome basic instead of Crome pro. Help me out!

06-08-2006- Alright, got a job, started work (pizza hut and im not suppose to be a driver but one of my old favorite shift managers lets me take deliveries now and then ^_^), also heard from Xenocron that they were backordered on the LC-1's so he sent me the whole kit except that, I hope he'll refund the money back to me for the LC-1 so i can order it because he's expecting them in more than a couple weeks x_x. Anyway I can at least try and chip the ecu (hopefully without setting the board on fire... =P) Also you guys have been a GREAT help so far, I'd probably give up by now if I had all these unanswered questions. Articles can only do so much.

Wish me luck, God willing I'll be ready to go with everything, unfortunately for now I'll probably have to resort to the "let my friend drive while I tune" approach since even if i found a cheap dyno i would probably waste my money trying to figure out whats going on. Thanks again everyone! Wish me luck![/b]

06-12-2006- Today I finally finished chipping the ecu, I used a jumper for J1 and put the map (on page 4 i have it for download, please look at it for me) onto Ostrich and then to the ecu, jumped j1, turned on the car and I could smell it burning rich immediately. I dont know what was wrong, i even had some help with that map but anyway, what im gonna do now is download a completely stock map and try to put that on.

I'm just really glad that everything worked up to this point. I never thought that I could even get this far in the first place. To all you n00bs, I'm a shining example of a person who was totally illterate in this stuff and came this far, try hard, and help people in return when you're pro -_^

06-14-2006- Ok today was a landmark for me lol. I soldered the chips into place, took the stock B18B ls basemap here, converted it from P72 to P30. Here was the big moment. None of the maps i've been trying have worked before, I always smelt rich burning fuel. So I tested it out..

Hooked up Ostrich, did Real Time and "Put" into Ostrich. Took it to my car, connected the Ostrich to the ECU. Turned on the car first time (In the name of God, Most Gracious, Most Merciful...) got a check engine light but nothing sounded funny. Turned off the car, used a pin to jump this blue jumped in my integra (thats how you check the code the engine is sending). Turned to "ON" position, no code. Took off j1 jumper, still no code.

So I turned the car on again, no more check engine light (weird?). Revved the car, everything seemed ok. Im kinda curious though because since the map I used had 0's for the AFRs after 5000 rpm what I did was copy the last line with actual AFR's into the last 5 missing lines. I drove the car for 10 minutes or so no problems. So I think I finally got a basemap! Still confused about the whole Crome deal, I dont know whats up with the whole P72 vs P30, etc thing. Also trying to learn more about Crome and its plug-ins, and whether the latest version is really worth using or not.

I'm about to attach the map I used on page (5?) Please anyone take a look and tell me what I should do with the 5000+ rpms, are the AFR's ok? Does everything else look good? Running 87 octane here, once I go turbo gonna start running 91 octane God willing.

Well I've made it this far, PM me with any questions, don't be afraid to be a n00b, everyone starts like me ^_^

07-02-2006- I know its been a while guys so I've decided to provide an update for everyone to kinda see where I am right now. Xenocron shipped the LC-1 and some other stuff ive been waiting for (for 3 weeks or more not to mention x_x) but thank God I waited, I ended up getting some better deals on certain things that, God knows, would've cost me a lot more probably otherwise.

So once that stuff comes im ready to start tuning with my friend basically, got everything ready. As for my turbo setup I have a (.60-.63 I cant remember) trim Garret T3 Turbo. Got the gauge and a gauge cluster also. Last night I picked up some RC 310cc saturated injectors from another member on here (thanks!) while he was down in Southern Cali for his trip.

So now I just need to wait, I've started another job at Costco (and kinda quit my other job) so it's a little more busy than usual. So God willing by Wednesday or so the stuff should be here and I'll try to keep you guys updated on whether anything blows up =P

08-01-2006- In the name of God towards a new month ( 1 hour 39 minutes into it hehe). Its been a while since I've posted so I thought I should update on whats going on. My turbo kit is pretty much complete, waiting for the manifold and fuel pump and besides that my friends gonna help with the custom piping and exhaust later down. Because of work (im at Costco now) for my friend and I in this project together we've hardly had any time so we couldn't even hook up the wideband to just test everything out. But we hope to so we know how and hope that we can find it simple enough to switch in and out really quick. For those interested heres my turbo setup:

T3 Garret Turbo .63 A/R
Blox Cast Iron Manifold
Greddy Type S Universal BoV
Boost cluster with gauge
no name Intercooler
38mm Tial Wastegate
Walbro 255lph HP Fuel Pump

Thats all I can think of right now, its pretty much complete besides piping, misc little things like flanges and brass fittings, and oil lines. =) Hope to add more such as a turbo timer later. But i'll let you guys know if my car doesnt blow up ( I shouldnt even joke about that)

08-11-2006 Now everything is pretty much ready I just need piping which im looking into since we cant find any mandrel benders in the area at any shops but we have found a couple places who sell the piping we might be interested in. Ive learned more about tuning and how to go about getting started and then actually tuning the car from the basemap I have. Almost there! Even if I dont finish by the end of this summer (school starts in about another week) then I'll still be happy that, thank God, we got this far with a matter of 2-3 months or less.

Also I just got the serial to usb adaptor for the wideband just a little confused on certain parts of the installation. God willing it'll all work out and my motor will stay in one piece!

08-26-2006 Still waiting on piping, we kinda got where we're going through, we just need to visit a metal place but they were closed today and we were gonna go. We know a great guy at an exhaust shop to make us bends, 90 is the best he can do but its ok because 90+90 equals 180 bend =) Also trying to get that downpipe going also, cant wait to tune!

08-31-2006 My car is officially running off a stock map converted to P30 code that I made using Crome. At first there were some problems getting it going but I just took off the ZIF socket and put the chip onto the D2 original chip. I am considering down the line desoldering the D2 chip and soldering the ZIF directly to the board but i like the connections on the D2 more so I dont know.

Ive driven for a few miles and it seems fine so far, no unusual noises, feels like normal. Just one step closer, thank God =)

09-05-2006 Won some 440cc RC Injectors off ebay today and i was surprised no one outbid me. They are brand new, used for 2 hours in a dyno and taken out for bigger replacements, he rates them 10 out of 10 and he has all positive ratings (86 of them)

Total came out to something like 157 after shipping and insurance. Watcha guys think? This cancels a big worry for me since I have only 310cc now. Thank God! =)

09-08-2006 So far couple weirds things with my ecu, like solders were bad or something but I think I may have fixed it. God willing. Otherwise, I sold my old 310cc RC injectors and got some 440cc Injectors, should be better for the turbo setup.

My friend hooked up his turbo just to test it without charge piping, was kinda cool to feel that air coming out of the turbo. Almost there, i know ive said this a million times, but because we're so tight with time (how funny, you have money now but no time) we arent able to finish.

God willing soon!

09-19-2006 Today.. well yesterday officially now.. my friend and I worked at my dad's shop (I was so surprised my dad gave me permission, thank God lol) we got the intercooler in, barely had to cut anything out of the bumper just a couple pieces of plastic. Got my 440cc injectors in with a map to match and its been running fine so far, thank God.

Hoping to get piping on from intake manifold to intercooler then slap on turbo and all after i get fittings and oil line then finish the piping and put a basemap on there. Wish me luck! Any questions lemme know, im starting to understand more about cars than ever, thank God! its amazing, i was clueless before and i was almost sure i couldnt do this without a friends help and a friend did help but not the same one. Its nice knowing that you still know whats going on lol. I wish I knew where the analog output goes from the LC-1 to the ecu...

09-22-2006 Ok things are looking swell. We had to take out radiator during turbo install but we got a civic dual core half size radiator instead. so far the turbo, manifold and the oil feed line are good. We need an oil return line. Also injectors, colder spark plugs are good.

After we get the return line we plan to drive nearby (around corner from dad's shop) to get a downpipe in at an exhaust shop we know. That should quiet it down and we can get our o2 bungs in there God willing.

After that we just need piping and maybe throw in the walbro fuel pump and everything should be ready to tune (God willing!) I really hope nothing goes wrong :lol:

09-29-06 I think what we've done so far lately is worth posting about. So basically im still trying to figure out where on the ecu the analog output goes, im kinda lazy to read about where and when i do im confused.

Anyway right now the turbo, manifold, injectors, 2 o2 bungs, are all on the car. Feed and oil return lines are both running but i think we might have to redo the return. Wastegate was put on, also got 2.5" straight through piping exhaust complete with downpipe. Gotta see why im getting exhaust smoke after we first redid the return line and put the wastegate on, it wasnt showing up before so thats odd. Might be that the return line isnt going straight down.

I cant wait to finally finish, the turbo spooling sounds beautiful even though i try to keep it to a minimum. After that we can plug in that sensor once we find out where the analog out connection goes exactly and tune. =)

Thank God. God willing ill update you guys soon and it wont be about the turbo being bad... i hope x_x

10-14-2006 I know.. I should be finished already but im not. I wanna get to tuning so you guys can see how that all goes. There is good news though, thank God; I got piping in today, what I did was read this article http://www.team-integra.net/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=12&TopicID=23324&SearchPagePosition=1&search=shinta&searchMode=allwords&searchIn=Author&forum=0&searchSort=dateDESC&ReturnPage=Search
I wish I had just followed it before and not wasted my money trying to play around with different things to find piping but God knows best, Ill let it be, its nothing much to regret.

Should be enough piping to hook everything up, might do a very temporary jb weld of the Blow off Valve to the piping to the piping until I find a welder that does aluminum.

By the way I got the piping from JCWhitney and it was 2.25" Aluminum piping. To jump to 2.5" they seem to jump up the price and I dont think I even needed that much so I should be fine God willing. So piping, BoV, vacuum lines from BoV and wastegate and I should be ready to tune. Hope to get there soon and let you guys know how it goes (if everything stays intact) =)
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10-16-2006WOW.. yeah.. Finally got hot side piping all on, thank God it worked out and it hasnt overheated the rubber couplers yet or blown them off. Still gotta do cold side but my friend was sleeping so I couldnt pick up the cold air i was buying from him.

Hopefully its just cold air and a u bend, looks like it. After that we need to weld on the BoV or ghetto weld (JB Weld). Then its vacuum lines and we can finally tune =)

10-18-2006 I know most people probably aren't reading this but I still keep posting because its good to go back to reference to myself, and if it helps anyone else its more than worth it.

I got all piping done with help from the few who have been helping me all along, good people they are =) Only problem was rubber piece kept blowing off and we werent getting the amount of boost we needed, it was only a basemap but we should at least see the 7-8 psi boost we should be getting, its an 8 psi spring. So i wanna get that fixed and then get to tuning.

Having some problems with tuning, trying to figure out how certain features work like getting crome to read you LC-1 and datalog, etc. Adios!

10-21-2006 Today we put an oil restrictor on for the feed line since it was -4AN I was getting too much oil and it resulted in smoke coming out of the exhaust. It looks like the problem is fixed God willing, I dont see smoke anymore. The funny thing is in all the turbo articles i read on installation I never once saw them mention an oil restrictor which is pretty darn important when it comes to keeping your seals intact. Also all the articles were 3rd generation or 2nd generation integra specific so you would think so ... but anyway..

Also we found an exhaust leak because the gasket was bad on the wastegate so now it sounds that much better and I think once we fix the broken hose connected to IC piping we'll get more boost God willing. Or else im going to be pretty frustrated lol.

Keep ya updated!

10-28-2006 Ok so you guys should know now all my turbo is hooked up. The only problem is the turbo to piping coupler keeps either getting cut into by radiator fan or popping off. So my plan is (i just bought a silicone coupler and it held on but fan kept cutting in) to install a slim fan (bought one, waiting for it God willing) and that should solve that problem, especially since I can use it as a push fan and put it on the other side of the radiator.

Then if the coupler doesnt slip I should be able to finally tune. So far ive looked at datalogging and whatnot, the last step is to test an article I read about how to hook up the wideband (Message me if youd like to know there are some posts about it too). Then we can tune God willing and hopefully nothing blows up! *NOOOOOOOOOOOOO* =)

11-07-2006 A lot has been getting done, im starting to think that my spring is rated at 5 lbs and not 8 lbs as advertised. Ill datalog in crome and i notice it will top off at EXACTLY 5.0 psi and climb back down.

Anyway a lot more of my adventures have been going on if youve been reading but heres a recent post.. viewtopic.php?t=12266&highlight=

11-19-2006 Today seemed like an actual tuning day. Hooked up the wideband and ostrich and datalogger up, got the laptop up and running.

Friend was driving, found a fairly empty street, went to third gear early and floored up. Got my AFR's from around 12 AFR to early 13's. Changed some timing also, just wondering how im suppose to change early AFR's and whatnot.

11-22-2006 Ok today I think I actually tuned right, I think... We went around and did full throttle first. We got AFR's from too rich (10 AFRs') to Ok (12 AFR's) Then we moved on to timing. I got my ignition to the point where it went from the .75 retard default to .37 retard. No pinging, checked spark plugs and theyre also fine. Got idle a lot better. Still think I can get more power, doesnt feel quite right..

11-30-2006 Looking into actually tuning on a dyno, so far ive found what the guy says is a load type dyno for 80 bucks/hour. Compared to 125/hr for an inertia dyno. sounds pretty good to me.

Anyway I think before I get going on that I wanna do some street tuning especially since im boosting 8 psi or so now. Also I have to look into why my turbo is "running out of breath" so to speak and whether thats normal or not at higher rpms.

01-22-2007 Wow its been a really long time since the last update but heres whats going on. Cars been running pretty well on the street tune but weighing my options on whether to take 2-4 hours tuning myself on a dyno paying 80 an hour ive found that itd be more worth it for me (since money is an issue) to take it to Whitfield Racing here and get it tuned. Ive seen on a site what he can do and he finishes the job within an hour (150 bucks) and told me he'd have it done in an hour.

So from this I guess ill be heading over there sometime soon God willing and finally getting a tune. Then God willing ill have some numbers to post up =) Finally!

02-20-2007 Project over. Car impounded. Charges pending.


Last edited by IntegraKarim on Wed Feb 21, 2007 3:21 am, edited 28 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 04, 2006 2:30 am 
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R54 does not exist on 1980 boards. Just use the leg of a resistor and bend it in a U shape for J1.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 04, 2006 5:08 am 
Cool thanks, so break off one of the legs or bend it at each end and connect to the two solders?


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 04, 2006 12:36 pm 
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Posts: 249
Location: Littleton, CO
And your stock map sensor is a 1.75 bar sensor but that is absolute pressure so you have 0.75 bar relitive pressure. That is 11 psi so you are safe to use your stock map for the amount of boost you are looking for.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 04, 2006 2:19 pm 
Oh beautiful, one less thing I have to worry about. Also I was still thinking about using Crome Pro or Uberdata. Everyone seems to go with Crome pro, the thing is with the kit I buy to tune + crome pro comes to about 550 dollars and thats not cheap.

Any reasons why I shouldnt go Ubderdata compared to Crome? Thanks


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 04, 2006 2:43 pm 
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Location: Littleton, CO
ease of tuning and datalogging in one softwar package.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 04, 2006 2:54 pm 
Hmm.. have you try uberdata and how exactly is it easier?

140 dollars worth of ease also? And doesnt uberdata also have datalogging? Thanks, i just wanna clear this up, i dont mind using a free tool.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 04, 2006 3:41 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2006 11:17 pm
Posts: 538
Location: Albuquerque, NM
I have played with both but I use crome because I found it much easier the use. However the uber isn't that much different, downlaod them both and play with them. They both have a free version you can use. See which one you would like to use and your on your way. I was under the impression you was going to run more than 11psi of boost that's why I suggested the new map sensor. Just to inform you alittle the stock map will do upto 11psi, but on a stock LS engine you should be able to run up to 15psi. I have a stock GSR and run 12psi without any problems.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 04, 2006 5:37 pm 
Wow thanks so much for the info, your responses are fast and youve been the most helpful guy to me here. I just wanna let you know i really appreciate it. As for 15 psi, im scared of blowing up my engine right now so ill go up to 9 max right now with the correct tuning God willing.

So you think ill be fine tuning with uberdata? I'll try downloading it, i played with crome but of course i cant really unlock it all since i dont have pro, and i still have a hard time understanding maps and how to change air fuel and know whats best, etc. Thanks!


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 04, 2006 7:50 pm 
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Well like I said I'm running a bone stock GSR engine on 12psi, I haven't had any problems. Altho I am only running a T3 turbo, the GSR has a 10.5:1 CR and thats the reason you can't run much boost on it without creating problems. The LS engine runs a 9.2:1 CR so you could push more boost. General rule of thumb is that more boost needs more fuel and more boost you want less timing. So as your boost increases with your rpm you want to add more fuel and less timing. You are going to have to do alot of datalogging and some dyno runs, then you can make your adjustments and see what you need to do with your fuel and timing maps. You can get close by just datalogging using your wideband to get your A/F ratios where they should be. On a turbo your general A/F ratios should be around 12 or 13. You will need to invest in some dyno time to get your max performance. You may already know this stuff but I thought I would advise you just incase you didn't. Also I don't know what addins you have to go with that turbo.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 04, 2006 11:41 pm 
FIRST POST UPDATED WITH TODAY'S LOG.



Hey civic_r87111, thanks for the quick reply. You mentioned the Integra LS Engine has a 9.2:1 CR. What does CR stand for, is it just A/F ratio? Also when you say to adjust the 'timing' what exactly is that, the ignition timing? I still have yet to read past the beginner's section so excuse my questions.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 05, 2006 12:29 am 
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CR stands for Compression Ratio and when taking about timing, yes, it's ignition timing. I'm a crazy gear head so almost any question about an engine I can answer it or at least find out if I don't know.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 05, 2006 3:27 am 
So the compression ratio is the same as the Air/Fuel ratio? Also, what is the function of the ignition timing, i read through more articles and I admit this site is very helpful, especially since it links to specific terms and I love that since I can just click and see what they are but in a way I wish there was a little bit different type of organization. Or maybe i just need to be spoon fed =)


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 05, 2006 1:55 pm 
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The reason that they refer to timing as being advanced is because when your motor ignites its air/fuel or a/f mixture it is BEFORE top dead center. The reason for this is that fuel takes a long time to burn so igniting this mixture before top dead center you will achieve peak cylinder pressure sometime after TDC. But if you advanvce your timing to much you will loose lots of power and if you advance far enough you get detonation. This is just part of an article I'm working on for tuning, hope it helps.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 05, 2006 5:57 pm 
That did help, thanks a lot.

Another couple questions I have listed in yesterday's log (first post) were:

In the stock bin file for the Integra B18b map, why is High Cam fuel all set to 0 and high cam ignition all set to -6.00?

Going through the the Crome article to get everything from the Integra B18b P72 to the P30 of the civic (I still dont know why I guess everything is more compatible this way) it said to copy both high cam and low cam (ignition and fuel) but if I were to copy the maps for high cam ignition and fuel i'd have a whole bunch of 0's and -6.00's, is there a reason they aren't filled in? They are filled in on the civic's, is it just mechanically different? Both B series motors.


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