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Hacking up Honda's ECU
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2007 1:00 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 10, 2006 8:08 am
Posts: 14
Location: Sac, CA
I'm jus getting started on tuning. If i was to tune with a wide band sensor, which i will remove the stock narrow band in the header; do i leave the stock narrow band still plugged up to the wiring then zipped tied somewhere clear, or can I just unplug the sensor from the harness? Could I fry the ecu with the sensor unplugged, which leaves an open? heard I can use some kind of resister to relieve the voltage from the o2 heater? thanks in advance


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2007 2:47 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2006 11:17 pm
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Location: Albuquerque, NM
Using your bin just turn the O2 sensor and heater off and unplug your stock O2 and you'll be set to tune with the wideband in your stock O2 bung.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2007 11:51 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 9:10 pm
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The only time where you will want to leave your stock 02 sensor plugged in and ziptied somewhere is if you are tuning an OBD2 ECU with a piggyback like a VAFC2.

You have your wideband output a narrow band signal to the ECU and then have the stock 02 sensor plugged in so it doesn't throw a heater code.

With chipped ECU you can disable stock 02 sensor all together


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2007 3:02 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 10, 2006 8:08 am
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Location: Sac, CA
thanks guys; but i have a few more questions hope you guys can answer them.

I got my ostrich and started playing around with it. First thing I did was install crome version 1.4.8, then plugged in the ostrich the old version 1. I used twinxp to automatic install the driver. Afterwards I went the device hardware to see what com number it was; its com5. Next, went into crome under settings/ realtime-programming selected moate ostrich/burn1, then clicked on detect connection, connected sucessfully and gave me the settings: com5, 115200, 8 bits, none, 1. I opened up a rom, clicked on removed checksum, add rtp+ quick datalogger, and added real time programming. Then clicked on PUT it said "the operation failed after 3 attemps" I made sure everything was connected had to close crome numerous times open and close the rom many times as well to get it to work. It would work for awhile then stop working again, then had to repeat the same steps again open/closing crome numerous times. When I finally got it to work I can't get rid of the engine light. I tryed using different roms and disabling all the sensors and changing the baud to 38400, I would still get a constant check engine light plus i jump the service connector to see if there are any codes. Nothing would happen the check engine light would just light solid.

With the check engine light on, i still decided to start it up, and it would run really rough and idles around 1500-2000. It would do the same with the different roms I had which came with from crome and supposely stock programs downloaded from xenoncron.com. I played with the Target idle, and IAC compensation and the fuel/ignition tables still couldn't get the idle down.

Maybe the check engine light is causing it to run rough like that during idle. BTW its a chipped p28 ecu, when i put a chip in it, it'll run fine and idle fine, but no matter what i did with the ostrich i can't get the check engine light to turn off. Like i mentioned before i did click on remove checksum and even attemt to disable all the sensors. I really dont know whats wrong maybe bad ostrich? Please help me thanks


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2007 2:09 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 12:56 pm
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Read the thread in my sig a few times. There are answers to your questions on o2 connections and CEL issues.

Your CEL problem could be a bad chip job, a faulty bin, or due to a bad ostritch or ostritch connection. Can you reliably do a put and a verify?

When the CEL is lit and your car is running in limp-mode, the ECU doesn't use the bin at all, but some other sort of primitive method of engine control. That explains the rough, high idle and generally crappy tune as well as the inability to change anything with parameters in the bin file. Do you know if the chip job was done right?


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2007 2:59 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 10, 2006 8:08 am
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Location: Sac, CA
it can't be the chip job because, i took off the ostrich and plugged in an epprom chip, and it idle smooth with no check engine light. But when I plugged in the ostrich the check engine would light again.

I have to close/open crome acouple of times when i couldn't put/vertify, but once i can connect, it's puts/vertifys pretty relialible. The realtime programming works too.

Are these settings right: com5, 115200, 8 bits, none. Those were the automatic settings crome gave me after detecting connection. For the baud rate do i suppose to use 115300 or 32800? Also for the install drivers, I can let windows install it right? I didn't have to use the ones from moates?

Could you post up a stock n/a gsr/typer or civic bin for me so i can try. thanks


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