pgmfi.org

and by the way, any help is really appreciated.

From your datalogs, what PW is the ECU outputting? What is on the tables is not what the ECU is actually sending to the injectors.

I am working on a fuel map that will be better, IMO.

What crank pulley do you have? I would seriously recommend running the Y8 crank pulley. The Base timing of the Y8 is 12. The base timing of the A6 is 18. That is part of the reason why the idle is wonky.

What size tires and what transmission do you have?

What fuel are you running?

What turbo are you using with what manifold and intercooler?

where do I find the injector pulsewidth?

In the datalog csv file, which you should be saving. heh

I've got most of a bin together you can try out. I've never messed with anything with injectors that large before.

There is a very good possibility you cannot run e85 with an OBD0 setup. I amazed your car even idles at all, honestly . . .

Also, is this a stock bottom end? If so . . . You shouldn't be running this setup more than 5-6 PSI if you want the block to last any amount of time. heh

Alright, he's something I slapped together. I really don't know how much it will like boost, but I think it will run and drive better than what you've got now.

Try it and see what the engine thinks of it.

I havn't been saving the files cause I've just been messing mostly with idle, and I'm using an ostrich so just tuning till it looks right.

The bottom end is not stock, I have vitara pistons, and eagle rods. The compression ratio should be around 8.9:1.

Thanks I will try it out and see what happens.

Cool. Sounds like a solid build.

Let me know if the bin does anything to help.

Oh!

What specific injectors are you running?

precision 880's

Very interesting . . .

Put your basemap in and it runs and idles pretty good. It revs pretty smoothly too (haven't aken it for a drive yet). I'm still not sure about my afr's cause I'm getting around 10.5:1 at idle. If I try and lean it out it starts to sputter pretty bad. Not sure why I have to run it so rich to keep it idling smooth. I'm wondering if my wideband is not reading correctly, I think I'll try and hook it up on another car and see what it reads.

I think one of the major issues is that at 18* base timing, the idle won't really be super stable. That is really advanced for a Y8-headed engine. you can change the idle timing to 12*, which is what the Y8 runs stock, though if you eventually want to set the base timing correctly, you'll need a Y-series crank pulley or to carefully mark 12* BTDC on the pulley.

I really think your wideband is reading correctly. 880cc injectors have never been run on TE before, to my knowledge, and I've been using TE since the beginning.

A few caveats with the tune I posted:

I've never tuned a turbo Y8 before, let alone one with injectors that large.

I'm not too experienced with VTEC engines, though I have done a good number of basemaps for simple Mini-me head swaps or VTEC engine swaps. So, before you go blasting through the upper RPMs, and into boost, watch your wideband after you confirm that it is working.

I'm glad it is revving smoother. The tune you were using before probably wouldn't be drivable at all. The timing map was fairly horrific (The A6 maps won't work for anything with a Y8 head) and, honestly, the interpolation job you did wasn't super.

As a side note, I never have liked the "boost efficiency" thing. I've not found it to work unless the NA WOT maps are tuned well before hand, but that still doesn't take into account the turbo's spool characteristics.

I also took the liberty of applying an RPM multiplier to raise the upper limit of the map to 8600RPM, since you are going to have to rev the engine at at least 8K to really use the cam and not fall out of boost or VTEC (which I lowered). I did NOT change the rev limits yet, but I figured that you can handle that. You always want to have the maps set up for what you anticipate doing. For example, if you had already tuned on the normal map without applying the RPM multiplier to raise the upper RPM limit of the map, you would have to completely retune the entire map. TE wouldn't know how to interpolate up or down, and you would end up having to retune everything from idle to max boost and RPM. This way, you now have maps that you can tune and not have to futz with later, aside from nomal adjustments.

If you want to see how different your bin is from mine, look at the maps in 2D mode. I ALWAYS tune in 2D mode. Seeing the lines and where they go gives a good indication of how the ECU will react to the maps. If you have the lines crossing all over the place, jagged and crazy looking, the ECU is going to do it's best, but you will never get a good, solid tune out of it. Learning to use the 2D maps will make you aware of thing faster. The fuel maps can roughly be equated to the expected torque. The timing maps are a bit weirder than that, and it requires learning about the whole point of ignition advance in internal combustion, 4-stroke engines. I am fairly confident in the ignition map I put together in that bin, as far as a safety standpoint and from the ability to just drive the sucker.

Ok, I will get the base timing set to 12 degrees. So do I need to change the whole map until the idle region is at 12 degrees? or just change the idle section?

I appreciate all your time and effort, hopefully I will get to take the car out soon and get some street tuning in. I'll let you know how it comes out.