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Stock '01 ITR. Ran fine. I pulled the injector driver before giving it a compression test, but forgot to unplug the distributor. Now it cranks, but won't fire. The relays and fuses look good, and I replaced the distributor with a reconditioned one on a friend's insistence that it must be the problem, though I'd already replaced the coil and ICM in the old one. I went as far as replacing the ECU with another OBD2B P73, swapping in my immobilizer after my scan gauge wouldn't turn-on when testing with the stock ECU. No ground wires were touched. I don't know anyone near me with another Honda on which to test parts.

The injector drivers are inside the ECU, so I'm not sure what you mean when you "pulled" it.
You shouldn't need another Honda to test parts, you just need a Haynes manual to do basic troubleshooting. Either you popped a fuse or you probably have a wiring problem. Grab a manual.

Oops; I meant the 14-pin dead-end plug.

Thanks to the Helm manual, I now have spark; the fusebox in the engine bay had the ECU fuse labeled as "interior lights", and I somehow overlooked it.
However, the car still won't start. I have fuel pressure at the filter, and the oscilloscope shows pulse to the injectors. Any ideas?

Pull the plugs and smell them for fuel. If you can't tell, pull the rail and make sure the injectors are flowing. It's a little messy but it's the only other sure way to know they're all juiced.
Test distributor coil pack resistance and check that the plug wires and fully seated with proper resistance in the right order.
KOEO, Make sure the CEL and main relay clicks on and the fuel pump is operating, then the CEL and relay click back off.
Crank it for a good 30 seconds, if the CEL doesn't turn on, it's likely a mechanical failure. We can assume there's a good chance it's a mechanical error if you were already testing for compression.

Compression is fine. I only checked it out of curiosity, since I'd just recently purchased the car; it ran fine.

I'll smell the plugs for signs of fuel, and pull the rail to check the injectors, but the oscilloscope shows an input pulse at the injector plugs. Spark plug wires are in proper order on the distributor cap, and are fastened securely on both ends, and the distributor is new. I'm getting spark. The fuel pump primes, and I have pressure at the filter. I get no CEL after cranking, so no codes. I may flow some solder over the injector pins of the dead-end plug, in case they aren't making good contact with the female side, though I'd expect the oscilloscope to show if this were the case.

The dead end plug is 12v power from the main relay. All you have to do is backprobe the pins and check for voltage to ground. If you want to check for connection strength just measure resistance or continuity from the injector clip to the battery.
Normal compression check procedure to just keep the ignition off and trigger the starter manually with a spade connector to 12v so you can stay under the hood. Or you can just pull the two ECU fuses in the engine fuse box.
Have you tried using starter fluid? If you're getting spark and it's mechanically sound there's no reason it won't rev up for at least a second on starter fluid.