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Hacking up Honda's ECU
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 1:54 am 
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So when you install the eeprom chip in the 28 pin socket, do you have to solder it in place? What about using a zif socket? Would that replace the 28-pin socket, or be inserted into it? The only thing that comes to mind is a clearance issue that might arise from having two dip sockets stacked on top of a chip, with another chip in a zif socket on top of all that.

Thanks for the pictures, helps explain everything so far much better. Looking forward to trying this out.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 3:37 pm 
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Location: Auckland, New Zealand
No you dont solder the chip in place . . . you should be able to remove and replace it. I guess you could use a zif socket if you wanted to make it easier to remove/replace the chip.

I've never had an issue with the height. As long as you keep it as compact as possible, you should be fine. I'm not sure whether a zif socket would cause any clearance issues . . . Try it and find out :-)


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 4:42 pm 
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Sounds good, I'll probably order a zif when i get the rest of the parts just to have one on hand.

Oh and while I'm at it asking noob questions, what gauge wire were you using?

Thanks again for the great pictures!


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 5:09 pm 
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'm pretty sure I'm using either 22 or 24 gauge wire . . . . its just the cheap thin stuff from the local sparky shop . . .does the job 8)


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 8:42 am 
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shiftyjonno wrote:
Yes the resistor is used to bridge between pin 1 and 28 only if your using a 512 chip (sst27sf512). If your using a 256 chip, DONT install the resistor, just use a direct connection.



can the ostrich v.2 be used with the resistor installed or does the direct connection need tu be used?


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 1:52 pm 
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I couldn't tell you I'm sorry. Ask Craig Moates first or just try it.

I've always used a direct connection to the Ostrich (its intended purpose) using a spare 'chippable' ECU (its got a standard unhacked 28pin socket in it)

Once I have the tuning part sorted, Ill program my chip and then put it in my 'hacked' ECU . . .


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 9:14 am 
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ok mine is pretty much done, got my resister today and....

Image

Its MASSIVE!! it is a 10k resistor though, is it going to be ok???


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 10:14 pm 
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LOL . . . It's HUUUGE

Best use a small 1/4 watt one . . . . Probably wont matter though


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 1:07 am 
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Got mine just about finished, did it a little differently though. Got everything wired in except the switches, I'll try to get some pics up tomorrow.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 4:00 am 
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Uploaded some pictures. As you can see I haven't finished wiring the switches in. I did this over the holiday while I was visiting my family. Had my dad lend a hand since he's been into the radio/electronics stuff since before I was born. He's also a lot better at soldering than me :oops:

First thing I wanted to do differently was try to avoid having to cut holes in the ECU case for the switches. My plan is, instead of grounding the switches to the chassis and case, running the ground wire back to the ground pin at the ECU. That way I can have them more easily accessible. Also instead of having two separate ground wires, combine them both near the switches and run one back to avoid excess clutter. Any thoughts or comments?

Also, I wanted to include a ZIF socket since I'll be switching out chips a lot (no emulator). First thought was to place a ZIF on top of the 28-pin socket, but even with a lo-profile ZIF it won't clear the cover.

Next idea was to use a 28-pin DIP right on top of the RAM chip, but there's no way it'll clear the other chip thats nearby.
Image

So in the end, we ended up using the 24-pin DIP as originally laid out, but soldering the resistor and other wires directly to the ZIF. This way it clears the cover just fine, but I am using a lo-profile socket (they were cheaper anyways :wink: ) so I'm not sure if a standard one would work.
Image
Image

Lastly, while trying to find a good spot for the ground on the ECU, my dad wasn't satisfied with damn near any spot. Checked the chip ground pins, the case itself, etc. While checking with a multimeter, the only spot he could get to come up with a ground was the right hand side (in the pic) of this diode:
Image

He seemed pretty confident it would work fine that way and since he know more about this than I do, I was inclined to believe him. However, on the trip home, the wire broke free :? So it's going to get resoldered, just gotta figure out where exactly.

Any criticisms, comments, or if anything just looks generally fubar'd let me know now before I plug it in! :lol:


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 9:05 am 
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shiftyjonno wrote:
the switches will not work if they are not grounded to the ecu chassis.


there is not a ground connection between the ecu board and the ecu chassis. will this only work when the ecu is bolted into the car?

reason i ask, i have a dual carb car with a pgmfi swap and dont have the factory fitted studs in the footwell needed to bolt the ecu down.

can the common ground on the board itself be used for the switch ground?


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 1:51 pm 
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Any ECU that bolts to the floor-well can be earthed on the ECU chassis. You could also use a common ground on the ECU board itself.

If you don't have floor studs to bolt the ECU to the car, I would suggest making an earth-strap to bolt (or screw) from the ECU to the car chassis using 8mm eyelet crimps.

I once chipped an ECU for a mate of mine. He was complaining that it was stuttering and working intermittently. When I pulled the carpet back, I could see his ECU was not bolted down AT ALL . . . I held down the ECU with my foot, and everything worked perfectly. As soon as I removed my foot, it would stutter again. When I got back to the workshop, I bolted the ECU down, and the problem was gone. ECU ran fine.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 6:12 am 
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Hello to everybody!
At first I want to thank you for great and valuable information how to chipping unchippable ecu PM6.

But I have one stuped question: on diagram connecting the EPROM chip have a one switch. For what is this switch?

Thank you at advance for yours answers!

Best regards

Martin Marinov


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 12:04 pm 
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the switch is to flick between stock and modified roms


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 7:46 pm 
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Thank you. This may be for "normal" and "sport" type of drive ;) If you want sport type switch on, and for "normal" -off. Is that corect?


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