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Hacking up Honda's ECU
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:36 am 
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Hey guys, so I've pretty much given up now and have resorted to asking for help.

Engine: B16A2 (From 99-00 Civic SI), in EG8. Using original P06 ECU, manual.

Issue: Solid CEL (Code 0) when J1 is bridged, fine without. Also goes into limp mode.

I chipped my P06 ECU, according to the information on the wiki, 74HC373 latch, the two caps, and the pulldown resistor for chip enable.
I'm using an AT28C256 with a little adapter I made to re-route A14, and ground WE. No other mods to the ECU yet (No vtec etc).

I used both a 318 stock and 203 stock rom file (both with the checksum disabled, however the checksums were correct anyway). Exact same results for both.

I have checked every connection on the board (and in the process discovered where everything connects, does anybody know why the designers did what they did with A4-A7?), and they're all good. I checked the most remote points I could (i.e. the pins on the eeprom to the pins on the mcu). I checked everything for shorts, found none. And before anyone asks, of course both ICs are in the right way around.
I have searched every problem everyone else has had getting their chippy to work, and found no solution.

I will re check (for the fourth time) all connections later, but for now I'm exhausted.
I'm thoroughly stumped, is it possible the latch is dead maybe? (... it was a brand new one, but I didn't test it first).
Would not having VTEC circuitry installed cause the problem?
Any ideas at all will be appreciated, because I'm out...

Cheers guys


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 7:26 pm 
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Post a picture of your so called good handy work and let's see if we
can spot the problem.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 1:54 pm 
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If you have enabled vtec on the the chip then it will throw a code. Do you get any codes when you jump the connector with J1 still attached?

Try installing a map without vtec and see what results you get.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 7:34 pm 
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Quote:
Do you get any codes when you jump the connector with J1 still attached?


I'm not sure what you mean? Jump what connector with J1 still attached?

I tried a P06 map (non VTEC), and that didn't work either, which to Me confirms that its the hardware. Unless my programmer is having issues, but I wrote the chip and then verified it. I'm about to verify it again to check.

Tried getting photos, but the camera flash washes out the photo because of the reflection from the PCB. I'll try finding somewhere with better light.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 8:46 pm 
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Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Check all your solder points for dry solder. Use a 27 series eprom. Then see if it works correctly.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:05 am 
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Checked, double checked, and checked again all joints. Nada. I got a spare ECU and modded that one too, exact same result. I now assume that the ECU for some reason cannot read the 28c256. Has anybody successfully used one of these before? I don't have a UV eraser, so I don't want to use 27c256s, has anyone used 27sf256s with any success?


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 6:10 pm 
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Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
sebtoombs wrote:
Checked, double checked, and checked again all joints. Nada. I got a spare ECU and modded that one too, exact same result. I now assume that the ECU for some reason cannot read the 28c256. Has anybody successfully used one of these before? I don't have a UV eraser, so I don't want to use 27c256s, has anyone used 27sf256s with any success?


Yes I have use many many types of eproms but not all 27 series eproms are uv erase. The sst27sf256 is not uv erase. All eproms that a not uv erase are electric erase. They are called eeproms. Not eproms.

The 28 series eproms have a different pinout and do not work with being modified. It is not worth the time to do this when 27 series 256s and 512s are so cheap


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:23 pm 
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sicknastyb17 wrote:
Yes I have use many many types of eproms but not all 27 series eproms are uv erase. The sst27sf256 is not uv erase. All eproms that a not uv erase are electric erase. They are called eeproms. Not eproms.

The 28 series eproms have a different pinout and do not work with being modified. It is not worth the time to do this when 27 series 256s and 512s are so cheap


Please read the whole thread.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 9:45 pm 
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Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
I did read the whole thread. :roll: You said you chipped another ecu with the same results. Sounds like your doing something wrong. Its not my fault you can't seem to do anything right so please dont be hateful.

You asked if anybody has used 27c256 eproms YES I have with just about everybody on this site. programs the same as a 27sf256.

When you programed the eprom did you have the eprom modded to ensure it is getting programmed correctly?

NOW stop being cheap and order the correct eprom and try again.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 11:54 pm 
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Found the issue. In my infinite wisdom, I had grounded the WE pin of the chip. This pin is active low. Rectified that problem, and all worked fine.

Thanks for the assistance.

Dear "sicknastyb17", there is no need to get nasty. You simply informed me that not all 27 series eeproms are UV erasable, and that 28 series are not pin compatible, which I know full well. Naturally given the brief, and with all respect, fairly useless nature of your post, I assumed that you had not read my question. Good day sir.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 6:10 am 
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Would hv solve this problem much earlier
If you posted the picture as requested.
Anyway "good job"


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