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had to have the head on my beater reworked.. reinstalled it... she ran for about 5-8 min while setting timing and what not then cut off.. i get in the car to try and crank it again and i can smell electrical burn.. following my nose it took me to the ecu.. what the hell? so i opened it up to find a blown cap. i have heard of this when having connectors backward.. so going by the schematic im my helms i double checked the connectors and it all checks out.. so im hoping that one of you ecu gurus can tell me what that cap is connected to and why it might have blown.

sorry for the crappy pic.. had to use the cell phone.. cant find the cable for my camera right now

My fuel pump does not prime anymore.. so i am guessing it has something to do with that.. the relay clicks but no pump.. burnt pretty bad but it looks like that cap is labeled c14... so i did some searching.. and sure enough that seems to be what it is linked to.. but what would cause it?

old age;

electrolytic caps are oil filled; it can slowly seep out or form air bubbles inbetween the plates inside; causing it to explode....


did it take any of the traces on the board with it? you should be able to replace the capacitor on the board if nothing else got damaged.

it took out two traces.. no biggie.. found an old post on here that gives digikey part numbers for all the caps... so i just ordered all 7.. might as well replace them all. it just sucks my beater has been down for two weeks.. 5 minutes after i fix it another damn problem..

for future reference if anyone comes across this with my problem here is some stuff posted by quagmire on here about those caps.. these are the digikey.com part numbers for all 7 caps on the board. he has listed these for a p28.. but i just checked all the caps on my p06 and they are the same.. hope this helps somebody

P5518-ND
P5517-ND
P5552-ND
P5549-ND (x3)
493-1733-ND

cap locations
C14; 220uF 35V cap
C15; 33uF 35V cap
C24; 47uF 10V cap
C21; 33uF 35V cap
C19; 33uF 35V cap
C18; 220uF 10V cap
C40; 100uF 10V cap

Caveat emptor: some of these parts are for 10V caps - DON'T USE THEM! You need 35V caps.

I take that back - there are some 10V parts in the ECU, too. Just be sure to replace the 35V parts with 35V or higher parts. The 10V parts can be replaced with 10V rated parts or higher. Physical clearances are important too, so you probably can't go too nuts with pro-rating parts. I double checked temps, physical clearances, etc. on these parts and they look good. I will let you know if I have any probs after ordering them - but I'm pretty sure they will be perfect.

Thanks for the info ekRboi!

is there a specific way to desolder and solder back in these capacitors?

You can have someone here within the group to do it for you if you do not feel comfortable doing it. Honnestly I would almost recomend it.

http://www.xenocron.com (New Jersey)
http://www.ecumods.com (Texas)

are two places that do repairs that i know of.

Hopes this helps you

I would not recommend replacing all the caps. C14 is most likely to explode because it handles more power than the rest. The smaller ones rarely go bad in our ECUs. Also there have been a lot of manufacturing issues with electrolytic capacitors in recent years that lead to premature failure. You may be replacing working parts with defective ones.

As the old saying goes... if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

I should have updated after I fixed it... All those caps I listed n r installed in my edu and working great! As for the desoldering... Fairly easy. Either use desoldering braid (radioshack) which u lay over the solder and heat up with solderin iron and the braid soaks up the old solder as it is liquified. The other option is a solder sucker... But unless u have/access to one or wanna spend a lil loot I don't suggest this.. The cheap ones suck (or don't suck?)... If u have little to no electronics experience I don't suggest trying it on ur own. If ur in nc I can do it.. Or u can send it to me and I'll get the parts..

PS. Hopefully they fixed the defective cap issue but it was less than $5 shipped for all the caps from digikey...

i know how to chip computers with no problems.

i have a bunch with the c14 and the other capacitors leaking (fuel pump doesnt prime)...but when i replace them with good working ones...the fuel pump still dont prime..the tracks and my soldering is good.

All the obd1 ecus are a dying swan if the caps are not replaced. the newest ones are from 1995 (14+ years).
i strongly recommend to replace ALL the electrolytic caps in these ecus including USDM and JDM.
ive seen all of them leaking into the pcb and, if not taken care in advance, it will most certainly damage one of the chips or a pcb trace.

Most of the chips on these ecus are not found in the market, so you have to source them from other ecus and pray to God that is not damaged also.

The cost is minimal and if you cant do it, take it to your nearest electronic shop. They should not charge more than 1/2 hr of work for replacing them.

-gen2integra
send me a pm, i can give you pointers on how to fix the fuel pump issue. have your camera ready.

I always tell all my customers to replace them in fact all the chipping kits I sell in my ebay store and at my shop in cincinnati all come with new ones.